The full expedition — eleven days, five passes above 5,000 m and the roads that most itineraries quietly leave out. Built for travellers with time and a tolerance for long, magnificent driving days.
This is our longest and most demanding published route, and the one our repeat travellers ask for. It goes where the day-trip crowds do not: the Chushul corridor along the line of control, the observatory village of Hanle, and the tarmac ribbon up to Umling La.
There are three driving days over six hours and you sleep above 4,000 m for four consecutive nights. If you have not been at altitude before, take our seven-day route first — we would genuinely rather you enjoyed it.
One of India's last Balti villages, apricot orchards, the Shyok gorge, Pakistan visible across the river
India's highest astronomical observatory, a dark-sky reserve with no light pollution for 100 km
5,798 m — the highest motorable pass on earth, tarmac all the way to the top
Kiang and black-necked cranes on the Changthang plateau, Korzok village
Dha and Biama — Brokpa villages whose people trace descent from Alexander's armies
The Suru valley, the 8th-century Maitreya rock carving at Mulbekh
Airport pick-up and transfer to your hotel. Complete rest for the first half of the day — with what is coming later, this is not optional.
Evening walk up to Shanti Stupa and a briefing with your driver-guide over dinner: the route, the passes, the weather windows.
Thiksey at dawn for morning prayers, then Shey and Hemis. Afternoon in Leh's old town, the Central Asian Museum and the market.
West along the Indus to Nimmu confluence, Basgo, Likir and the great prize — Alchi Choskor's Kashmiri-painted assembly hall.
Early crossing of Khardung La, down to the Shyok and west past Hunder to Turtuk — annexed by India only in 1971, and still Balti in language, food and architecture.
Walk the irrigation channels between apricot trees with a local family, and look across the river at Pakistan.
Slow morning in Turtuk, then back east to Diskit Monastery and the Hunder dunes for sunset among the double-humped camels.
The Shyok route east — genuinely rough in stretches, and the reason we use a proper SUV. Arrive at Pangong for the late-afternoon colour show.
South along the lake's edge through Man, Merak and Chushul — a restricted corridor few travellers see — onto the Changthang plateau to Hanle.
After dinner, if the sky is clear, the Indian Astronomical Observatory's ridge gives you the Milky Way with no horizon glow in any direction.
The big day. We leave at first light for Photi La and then Umling La — at 5,798 m the highest motorable pass on earth, black-topped the whole way by the Border Roads Organisation.
Time at the top is kept short and the oxygen stays close. Back down to Hanle by evening.
West across the plateau via Nyoma and Mahe to Tso Moriri, watching for kiang (wild ass) and, if you are lucky, black-necked cranes on the marshes.
Out via the Puga hot springs and Tso Kar, over Taglang La, down the Manali highway to the Indus and west to Dha–Biama, the Brokpa Aryan villages.
East via Kargil and Mulbekh's 8th-century Maitreya carved straight into the cliff, over Fotu La and Namika La, back into Leh by evening.
Breakfast and transfer to the airport.
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Leh – Chilling – Zanskar Gorge – Rumbak – Hemis National Park – Leh
Leh – Monasteries – Sham Valley – Nubra Valley – Pangong Lake – Leh
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